Book Review: Ancient Wine

Review

Ancient Wine: The Search for the Origins of Viniculture, by Patrick E. McGovern. (Princeton University Press, 365 pages, 2003). $42.00.

Have you ever wondered how the human race figured out how to ferment grapes into a liquid that gives us such profound pleasure? Patrick McGovern did, and his years of archaeological and historical research have led him to some interesting conclusions in this fascinating book.

One of the more interesting research experiments recounted in the book is McGovern’s attempt to recreate (through molecular archaeology) the beverage served at a feast held by King Midas almost 3,000 years ago. Partnering with a local microbrewer, McGovern came up with something quite unique: “not a beer, not a mead, not a wine—but a combination of all three, with layers of muscat aroma and a saffron taste that caught at the back of your throat and drew you back for more.” The beverage was served at a recreation of the feast in September 2000, and was even marketed commercially as “Midas Touch.”

McGovern’s stringently scientific approach may be a little dry for some, but the combination of history, archaeology, philology and even chemistry makes his conclusions all the more compelling. This meticulously-researched book is a rich resource for anyone curious about the mystery of wine’s origins.